1970s flower crochet hat

Here's the pattern for a hat to match this 1970s crochet scarf. It's so simple and pretty. You could even make the flower motif and attach it to an existing hat in your collection or use it to jazz up a shop-bought woolly hat.

You will need: 4 ply yarn for hat and contrast yarn for flower. 3mm and 3.5mm crochet hooks.

Tension: 6 tr = 1 inch in width measured over pattern on 3.5mm hook.

Hat: Using 3.5mm hook and main colour yarn, make 4 ch and join into a ring with a sl st.

1st round: Work 8 dc into ring, sl st to top of first dc to join. Do not turn.
2nd round: 2 ch ( = 1 tr), work 1 tr into first st, work 2 tr into each dc to end, sl st to 2nd of 2 ch.
3rd round: *Work 1 dc into first st, 2 dc into next st; work from * to end, sl st to 2nd of 2 ch.
4th round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into 1st st, *1 tr into each of next 2 dc, 2 tr into next dc; rep from * to last 2 dc, 1 tr into each of last 2 dc, sl st to 2nd of 2 ch. 32 tr.
5th round: Work 1 dc into each of next 2 tr, *work 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each of next 3 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into last st, sl st to top of first dc. 40 dc.
6th round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into first st, *1 tr into each of the next 4 sts, 2 tr into next st; rep from * to last 4 sts, 1 tr into each st to end. 48 tr.
7th round: Work 1 dc into each of next 2 tr, *work 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each of next 5 sts; rep from * to last 4 sts, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each st to end. 56 dc.
8th round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into each of next 4 sts, *2 tr into next st, 1 tr into each of next 6 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 tr into next st, 1 tr into last st. 64 tr.
9th round: Work 1 dc into first st, *2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each of next sts; rep from * to last 7 sts, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each st to end. 72 dc.
10th round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into each of next 5 sts, *2 tr into next st, 1 tr into each of next 8 sts; rep from * to lat 3 sts, 2 tr into next st, 1 tr into each of last 2 sts. 80 tr.
11th round: Work 1 dc into each of next 4 sts, *2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each of next 9 sts; rep from * to last 6 sts, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each st to end. 88 dc.
12th round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into first st, *1 tr into each of next 10 sts, 2 tr into next st; rep from * to last 10 sts, 1 tr into each st to end. 96 tr.
13th round: Work 1 dc into each of next 3 sts. *2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each of next 11 sts; rep from * to last 9 sts, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each st to end. 104 dc.
14th round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into each of next 2 sts, *2 tr into next st, 1 tr into each of next 12 sts; rep from * to last 10 sts, 2 tr into next st, 1 tr into each st to end. 112 tr.

Work straight in alternate rounds of dc and tr until hat measures 6 inches from last increase ending with a round of dc. Fasten off.

Make a flower centre and 6 petals as detailed in the pattern for the floral scarf.

To finish: Sew centre of flower to centre top of hat. Sew on 6 petals evenly spaced around centre of flower.

1970s crochet flower motif scarf

Here's an autumn crochet project from Woolworths Magazine from the early 1970s. It's a simple fringed crochet scarf which is given a little zip with a super-cute crocheted vintage flower motif. The flower is worked separately, so you could always just make the flower and add it to a scarf, hat or bag of your choice.

To go back to the 1970s, you will need 4 ply wool in main and contrast colours. 3mm and 3.5mm crochet hooks.

Tension: 6 tr = 1 inch in width measured over pattern on 3.5mm hook.

4 ply wool is harder to find these days, so try substituting DK yarn and use a smaller hook.

Using 3.5mm hook and main colour make 51 loose ch.

1st row: Work 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each ch to end. 50 dc.
2nd row: 2 ch, work 1 tr into each dc to end.
3rd row: Work 1 dc into each tr to end, working last dc into top of 2 ch at beg of previous row.

Repeat the last 2 rows until scarf measures 80 inches from beginning (or indeed, the length you want - let's go crazy here). Fasten off.

Fringing and edging: Using a 3.5mm hook and main colour, work 1 dc into each dc row and 2 dc into each tr row, work along both long edges of scarf. Using main, cut strands of yarn approx 18 inches in length, fold in half and draw bundle of 3 strands through 1st st at one end of scarf. Draw ends through loop and tighten, forming one tassel. Repeat through every alt st of shorter ends of scarf.

Flower motif: centre of flower: using 3mm hook and main, make 4 ch and join into a ring with a sl st.

1st round: Work 8 dc into ring, sl st to top of 1st dc to join. Do not turn.
2nd round: Work 2 dc into each dc to end, sl st to join.
3rd round: *Work 1 dc into 1st st, 2 dc into next st; rep from * to end, sl st to top of first dc.
4th round: Work 2 dc into first st, *1 dc into each of next 2 dc, 2 dc into next dc; re from * to last 2 dc, 1 dc into each of last 2 dc, sl st to join. 32 dc.
5th round: Work 1 dc into each of next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each of next 3 sts; rep from * to last 4 sts, 1 dc into each st to end, sl st to join. 40 dc.
6th round: Using contrast yarn work 2 dc into first st, *1 dc into each of next 4 sts, 2 dc into next st; rep from * to last 4 sts, 1 dc into each st to end, sl st to join. 48 dc.
7th round: Using contrast work 1 dc into each of next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each of next 5 sts; rep from * to last 4 sts, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into each st to end. 56 dc. Fasten off.

Make another centre the same.

Petals: Using 3mm hook and contrast make 9 ch.

1st round: Work 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 6 ch, 3 dc into next ch, continue along other side of ch working 1 dc into each of 6 ch, the 2 dc into last ch.
2nd round: 1 ch, work 2 dc into first st, 1 dc into each of next 7 dc, 3 dc into next st, work 7 dc, 2 dc into next st, work 1 dc.
3rd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into next st, work 9 dc, 3 dc into next st, work 9 dc, 2 dc into next st, work 1 dc.

Continue increasing 4 sts in this way by working 2 more dc between incs, at the same time working in the following colour sequence: 1 round contrast, 2 rounds main, 2 rounds contrast. Fasten off.

Make a total of 12 petals.

To finish: Sew centre of flower to each end of scarf approximately 4 inches up from fringed edges. Sew on 6 petals evenly spaced around centre of flower.

Make a velvet ribbon or braid belt

"Moneywise, fashionwise it's time to tighten our belts," says this early 1970s magazine article. As it was then, so it is now. If you have some odds and ends left over from another project, why not make a vintage-style belt?

Here's now to make the top Curved Braid Belt, made from two rows of braid machine-sewn to fabric. To fit a 61 - 71 cm waist, you will need 2m of 3cm-wide novelty open-weave braid, strips of toning fabric, lining and canvas each measuring 12cm by 91cm, a 6cm buckle, a press stud, matching thread.



Using squared pattern above, cut out a paper pattern in which each square = 5cm. 1.5 cm seams have been allowed throughout. Place pattern on fabric and cut out. Repeat with lining and canvas. Trim away seam allowance on canvas only. Cut braid into two equal lengths.

Leaving equal turnings along sides, place and pin the two lengths of braid centrally on to right side of fabric. Using matching thread, zig-zag or top-stich braid on to fabric. Tack canvas to wrong side of fabric. Wrap seam allowance of fabric over canvas along sides and ends. Tack and press in place. Oversew raw ends of thread before turning in to prevent fraying.

Pin wrong side of lining on to canvas and turn in all sides, covering raw edges of fabric to neaten. Press, hand stitch all round. At stright end of belt thread belt through bar of buckle and stitch end down on to back of belt. Sew press stud into position.

To make a Narrow Ring Belt:

By adding or substracting rings and adjusting ribbon length this belt can be made to fit any size waist. To make a 66 cm waist you will need: 1.5m of 1.5 cm wide black velvet ribbon, approx 48 brass curtain rings, fastening hook, matching thread.

To make: following above diagram, thread ribbon through rings to required length. Cut ribbon 2.5cm from the last ring at each end and turn back. Tuck in raw edge and stitch down. Sew hook on one end to fasten to ring at opposite end. With remaining ribbon make a small bow and stitch in place to cover hook.

Many thanks to Barbara for these brilliant belt patterns!

Ponchos for poppets

I am coming to the opinion that Patons Promise were the kings of brightly-coloured acrylic children's knitwear in the 1970s. They were the people who brought us these 1970s playsuits - the perfect undergarment for their knitted and crocheted "Ponchos for poppets".

The palm trees drawn in the background indicate a kind of tropical paradise, although obviously a tropical paradise blighted by a stiff, cold breeze. Our little poncho wearers are tucked up safe and warm and can enjoy their fully-dressed day out at the beach without fear of chill.

Umbrella cover, bun snood and spats

Here are three delightful crocheted accessories from the 1940s: "spats to turn your shoes into warm boots, a cover for your umbrella in chenille and a bun snood to match".

The umbrella cover is crocheted in Chenille yarn - lovely looking but would get rather soggy when wet...


The pattern also includes this lovely two-way hat, which can be worn on the back of the head, or rolled up and worn as a pill box.

1950s gloves to knit and crochet

The 1950s weren't just a classic era for chic hats. Gloves were dainty and stylish as well (and best displayed on expressively slender mitts, as above).

These four glove patterns from 1952 are recommended "for every occasion - in light shades for summer, or cheerful stripes for chilly days next autumn". The spotty gloves, black gloves and yellow and white embroidered gloves are all knitted in 3 ply. The striped gloves are crocheted in fingering thread.

If I start now, I might just have a pair of these by the autumn...

Buy a copy of this vintage 1950s knitting and crochet pattern for £1.50. You'll receive a link to download a high quality PDF document of this pattern upon payment.

Easy one-stitch crochet baby top

This vintage baby top from a 1970s Woolworths magazine is perfect for a first crochet project - the only stitches you need to know are the chain stitch, and the UK treble stitch (that's USA double crochet stitch). There's minimal shaping - just one easy decrease stitch, explained below, and to make things even better, this is a perfect stash-busting project - an excellent way to use up all those pretty odds and ends of DK yarn.

I made mine in shades of lilac, pink and blue, or you can try making it in the original pattern's bright colours. Or different shades of just blue. Or neutrals... Or...

You will need: oddments of DK yarn, 3.5mm and 3mm crochet hooks. Buttons.

Measurements: To fit chest sizes 46 (51-56) cm or 18 (20-22 inches).

Tension: 19 sts and 11 rows = 10 cms square measured over tr on 3.5mm hook.

Special abbreviation: Dec 1 = work 1 tr until 2 loops remain on hook, work next tr until 3 loops remain on hook, yo and through the 3 loops.

Back: Using 3.5mm hook make 49 (53-57) ch and work 1 tr into 3rd chain from hook, 1 tr into each ch to end.

Next row: 2 ch (count as 1 tr), 1 tr into each st to end. 48 (52-56) tr.

Rep the last row until work measures 15 (16.5-18) cm (6 (6.5-7) inches) or required length to armholes. Tie a marker to each end of last row to mark end of side seams.

Work straight until back measures 9.5 (10-11) cms (3.75 (4-4.25) inches from markers.

Shape back neck: next row work 17 (18-19) tr, fasten off. Miss centre 14 (16-18) sts, rejoin yarn to next st, 2 ch, work to end. Fasten off.

Left front:

Using 3.5mm hook make 23 (25-27) ch, work 1 tr into 3rd ch from hook, 1 tr into each ch to end. 22 (24-26) tr.

Work straight until front measures the same as back to markers. Tie a marker to one end of last row to mark end of side seam. Work straight until front measures 4 rows shorter than back to shoulder ending at side seam.

Shape front neck: next row work 19 (20-21) sts, turn. Dec 1 st (see special abbreviation) at neck edge on next 2 rows. Work 1 row. Fasten off.

Right front:

Work to match left front reversing shaping.

Sleeves:

Using 3.5mm hook make 27 (29-31) ch, work 1 tr into 3rd chain from hook, 1 tr into each ch to end. 26 (28-30) tr.

Work 1 row in tr. Continuing in tr, inc 1 st at each end (by working 2 tr into first and last st) of next and every following 2nd (2nd-3rd) row until there are 36 (38-40) sts. Work straight until sleeve measures 12.5 (14.5-16.5) cms (5 (5.75 - 6.5) inches. Fasten off.

Finishing and edgings:

Join side seams up to markers. Join shoulder and sleeve seams. Insert sleeves.

Edgings: With right side of work facing and using 3mm hook, join yarn to lower edge of right side seam, work 1 round of firm tr all round outer edge of jacket, working 3 tr into each corner, sl st to join.

Next round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into each tr, working 3 tr into each corner tr, work to end, sl st to join.

Next round: 2 ch, work 1 tr into each tr to end, sl st to join. Fasten off.

Work 2 rounds of tr around each cuff.

Sew buttons on left front edging as illustrated. Sew round corresponding space between 2 trs on right front edging for buttonholes.

The Crochet Set

She's young... she's beautiful... she's looking very smug... she's definitely part of The Crochet Set.

And her baby pink crochet dress (worked in Lister Bel Air 4 ply) can only be worked up to a 38 inch bust size. It's skinnies only in The Crochet Set, sorry.

Buy a copy of this vintage 1960s crochet pattern for £1.50. You'll receive a link to download a high quality PDF document of this pattern upon payment. Pattern is for 34 - 38 bust.